Maurice Lacroix Aikonic Automatic review – Pop Star from the Upper Echelons

Tags: Review | Maurice Lacroix | Classic

17.1.2026 | 6 MIN

The Maurice Lacroix brand is relatively young, yet it has become a well-established name in watchmaking. It has carved out a solid, respected place on the market, backed by a host of beautiful, well-made watches. Even so, you could argue its real breakthrough came with the now-iconic Aikon collection, which later spawned the newer Aikonic line. These watches kept teasing me, I resisted—but in the end, they won me over!

About the original Aikon line

Aikon was a stroke of genius, and its creator deserves a figurative Nobel Prize—especially in marketing. Founded “only” in 1975, this Swiss brand wasn’t afraid to let loose and recognized that even among customers seeking a watch with a luxury reputation, there are playful and extravagant souls.

Crucially, this insight came far earlier than it did for the competition, giving Aikon plenty of time to win the hearts of thousands of fans.

Aikon watches.

This philosophy reminds me of the hugely successful path Swatch has boldly followed for decades—one model, hundreds of combinations, something for almost everyone, and fans eagerly awaiting the next drop. But where Swatches are all about design, a luxury marque can also afford premium materials and prices to match—which, truth be told, plays into a sense of prestige for many buyers.

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Over the years, the Aikon line has introduced hundreds of models, boasting a spectrum of combinations of classic and unconventional materials and finishing styles.

Some recall graffiti‑covered walls in the New York subway, others can be called works of art without hesitation, and yet others could confidently shake hands with the staunchest conservatives. There have also been many fascinating limited editions, so Aikon soon became a collector favorite—and Maurice Lacroix pulled off a marketing masterstroke.

When the icon bares its teeth

Practically every Aikon (and Aikonic) is recognizable by its signature feature—a six‑armed bezel with pronounced “claws,” inherited from the successful Calypso watches of the ’90s. The dominant claws exude confidence, and on the Aikonic Automatic the fixed ceramic bezel is downright irresistible.

The brushed 316L stainless-steel case measures 43 mm across and, in reality, wears larger than it appears in promotional photos. That said, it is far from excessive, and although I tend to prefer smaller cases, I had no issues with the size on the wrist. The comfortable 11 mm thickness certainly plays a role here.

The crown sits in the traditional position on the right side of the case and felt right from the very first touch. It is sizeable, with sharply chamfered edges, and — like the bezel on the variant I tested — made of white ceramic and steel.

It harmonizes beautifully with the bezel, and together these elements dominate the watch’s appearance. The crown features both polished and brushed surfaces, is a joy to operate, screws down securely, and, as expected, is signed with the “M” logo on its steel face.

Hacking seconds are, of course, present, allowing for precise time setting by stopping the seconds hand.

The carbon trend

Over the last five years, carbon fiber has become immensely popular. It has long since ceased to be the preserve of aerospace, motorsport, or aviation and has increasingly entered everyday life — watchmaking included. Eye-catching dials are another hallmark of the Aikonic series, and the use of carbon fiber for the dial genuinely impressed me. The carbon looks appropriately raw, proudly shows its natural structure, and suits the watch perfectly.

All typographic elements on the dial are printed, while the small “M” logo is applied. A centered inscription above six o’clock confirms that we are dealing with an automatic movement. The black dial guarantees excellent legibility, which easily earns top marks from me.

A fine minute track runs along the inner chapter ring, followed by slender five-minute indices, doubled at twelve. The index at three is slightly shorter, sharing space with a boldly framed date window that remains highly legible thanks to white numerals on a dark background.

The sword-shaped hands are the only elements treated with Super-LumiNova. For my taste, that is perfectly sufficient — the hands are long, bold, and easy to read, and honestly, how many people actively rely on lume these days? The longest and most elegant hand is the slender seconds hand, which sweeps smoothly and gracefully.

Excellent readability is further enhanced by a sapphire crystal with double-sided anti-reflective coating. During testing, I barely noticed it at all, and any reflections or glare were minimal. Water resistance rated to 100 meters will undoubtedly please sport-minded wearers; after all, the dynamic, sporty design of the watch practically begs for an active lifestyle.

A home‑cooked delicacy with a pinch of the neighbor’s spice

The transparent caseback, secured by seven distinctive black screws, offers a view of one of Maurice Lacroix’s proudest achievements — the in-house automatic movement ML 1000. Developed in collaboration with movement specialists from Soprod, it has nothing to be ashamed of even on paper: 26 jewels, a frequency of 4 Hz, and an impressive 60-hour power reserve. This figure proved accurate in practice, as did the excellent timekeeping, with real-world deviations measured in mere seconds over the course of a week. The watch runs reliably and requires virtually no intervention when worn daily.

Even if technical specifications are not your primary concern, you will still appreciate the movement’s attractive finishing. Blued screws, Geneva stripes, and a distinctive balance bridge with twin screws are all present. What impressed me most, however, was the skeletonized rotor, beautifully perforated in the shape of the “M” logo.

Like the cat and the dog cooked together

I apologize in advance if the heading sounds like a flippant jab at the strap — that is exactly how it struck me, but in the best possible way. I am not sure whether the designers struggled to reach a compromise and each pushed through part of their vision, or whether it was the work of a single person with a very colorful and creative sense of combination.

You will find rubber, smooth and textured surfaces, and textile elements, all in contrasting shades. Even the underside of the strap is so intricate that you could spend several minutes studying it and still struggle to describe it fully.

What matters most to future owners, however, is simple: the strap is very comfortable, the watch wears exceptionally well, it is breathable, and the signed tang buckle with its hefty pin fits securely into the large adjustment holes. The “M” logo also appears on the upper side of the strap near the case, where it is integrated via two prominent polished bridges — another hallmark of the Aikonic line.

One more detail deserves mention: the easily interchangeable quick-release spring bars with an unusual 25 mm width. Maurice Lacroix calls this clever solution ML Easy Change.

An iconic conclusion

The Maurice Lacroix Aikonic Automatic loves to show off and looks thoroughly contemporary on the wrist. You will notice it throughout the day, not only because of its size, but also thanks to its bold, modern, and attention-grabbing color combination.

The price of the reviewed model is not insignificant, and competition in this segment is fierce. That said, the excellent finishing and quality materials are immediately apparent at first touch. Every detail reflects a high level of refinement and perfectionism. Add a reliable and well-performing movement, and it becomes difficult to find meaningful drawbacks. If you value quality, original design, and steadily growing collector appeal, the Aikonic Automatic is very likely to win you over.

Photo sources: Hodinky 365, official manufacturer images

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