Historic Bulova collection – Bulova has been pushing boundaries for 150 years

Tags: About the brand | Bulova | Men's | Women's | Classic | Retro

21.1.2026 | 8 MIN

As you may have gathered from several of our earlier articles, Bulova recently celebrated its 150th anniversary.In the watch world, a milestone like that truly means something—and it naturally invites a moment of reflection on the brand’s trajectory, its successes, and overall direction. We at Hodinky 365 took a moment to reflect as well. The Bulova Museum in New York loaned us several iconic models that practically breathe the brand’s storied past. Let’s explore these historic pieces together.

You can currently see the Bulova historical collection at our Ostrava store. It will be on display until the end of January 2026.

America runs on Bulova time!

The story of the man behind Bulova reads like a classic American dream. Unfavorable conditions at home, emigration to the United States, and entrepreneurial success on a global scale. That’s a neat way to summarize the life of Czech-born Joseph Bulova, who founded the brand in 1875. If that piqued your interest, I highly recommend my colleague Eliška’s article for a concise walkthrough of the brand’s history:

In the first half of the 20th century Bulova essentially dominated the U.S. market and built a strong footing abroad. Numerous factors stood behind that success, but I’d argue one of the most important was its approach to innovation. Bulova racked up a string of firsts and, for a time, set both technological and design trends. By the end of this article, I believe you’ll have a clear sense of what made Bulova so exceptional.

The rise of women’s watches

Today, women’s watches are part of virtually every serious brand’s portfolio. And while you could argue men still enjoy a slightly broader selection, we’re at a point where the offering is more than generous. It wasn’t always so. In the early 20th century, women’s watches did exist, but they were mostly luxury pieces with high price tags. The segment for accessible women’s watches was almost entirely absent. As you’ve guessed, Bulova set out to change that.

In 1917 the brand launched its first women’s collection, Rubaiyat. The name, referencing a Persian collection of poetry, evoked luxury and exoticism. The watches themselves stood out for their compact proportions and octagonal case shape.

The design clearly drew inspiration from Persian ornamental art. A slender, understated strap further underscored that these pieces were created primarily for a female audience. And Bulova managed to offer all this at a far friendlier price than its luxury Swiss competition.

Bulova Rubaiyat kicked off Bulova’s women’s collection.

We can safely say that with Rubaiyat, Bulova set women’s watch emancipation in motion—and the brand kept women front and center in the decades that followed. It’s also worth noting that the Rubaiyat legacy lives on in today’s lineup; Bulova still offers models bearing the name. While the designs have moved significantly away from their historical forebears, they continue to reference one of the company’s pivotal milestones.

Another loaner that speaks to Bulova’s women’s watch heritage is the Miss America. Released in 1930, it became an instant sensation—a beautifully decorated Art Deco watch.

Bulova Miss America in Art Deco style.

The case was set with synthetic sapphires and emeralds—an aesthetic high point in the brand’s lineup at the time, proving a watch could be not just a functional tool but also a beautiful piece of jewelry. They originally retailed for $37.50, which would be about $720 in today’s money.

In 2025 Bulova even surprised us with a modern reissue, limited to 600 pieces—proof of just how timeless this horological jewel really was. Some things simply don’t age. Demand was strong, though, and the watch is no longer available.

The fact that Bulova watches—women’s models included—became woven into American culture is evident from their frequent screen appearances. While watching the series The Queen’s Gambit not long ago, I noticed a scene where the protagonist, Beth, receives a Bulova as a gift from her mother. And not just any Bulova—the famed American Girl.

Bulova American Girl as worn by Beth Harmon in the series. Source: www.timeandtidewatches.com

To this day it’s regarded as a design gem that stood apart from the market. Its most interesting feature is a sprung bracelet working on a principle similar to a hair clip.

Isn’t it beautiful? Vintage women’s Bulova American Girl.

Fans of retro design weren’t left out, either. In 2025, a modern reissue of the American Girl was available—a limited edition of 3,000 pieces. Unfortunately, it too is no longer commonly found on shelves.

We also received one more notable piece from New York: the Bulova Academy Award. Even the box hints at something truly special. In the early 1950s, Bulova secured a special license from the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. For four years, Bulova was able to produce watches bearing the Academy Award designation with design elements referencing the famous ceremony. These represented the design pinnacle and the de facto high-end of Bulova’s offering at the time.

Period ad for Bulova watches. Source: www.mybulova.com

At the start of this article I mentioned Bulova as one of the standard-bearers of women’s watch emancipation. I’d argue this effort reached a symbolic high in the early 1970s.

Bulova launched a marketing campaign unlike anything that had come before it. The Accutron Mini was created with a clear goal: to offer equality. Same price, same design, the same technology—men’s and women’s models alike. The campaign ran under the slogan: "Equal pay. Equal time."

Advertising campaign highlighting parity (not only) between men’s and women’s watches. Source: www.ideascollide.com

It’s worth adding that these were Accutrons with tuning fork movements, a fascinating and—at the time—revolutionary technology in its own right.

A women’s Bulova Accutron with a tuning fork movement.

My colleague Eliška took a closer look at this model line:

Unfortunately, you won’t find women’s Accutrons in the current lineup. The men’s range does offer interesting options, but the Accutron collection (now a separate Bulova sub-brand) no longer plays the role it once did. Once mass-produced and broadly affordable, Accutron migrated into the luxury segment, targeting a much narrower audience. The good news: Bulova still dedicates a substantial portion of its portfolio to women’s models. Instead of a tuning fork, however, you’ll most often encounter modern quartz.

Bulova in professional service

Over its 150 years, the brand pursued many avenues, and alongside elegant pieces it naturally arrived at models where it wasn’t just about design but about durability and, above all, suitability for professional use.

Bulova military models.

Some became icons and are still sold today in updated form. We were lucky to find several representatives of this genre in the loaned collection.

Caseback of military Bulova Hack.

The oldest examples are undoubtedly the Bulova Hack models—military watches made for the U.S. Army. The older of the two dates to 1944, the newer to 1958. The name derives from the Army’s requirement for a hacking function—the ability to stop the seconds hand. This was crucial for precise coordination during missions where every second mattered.

Bulova released a Hack reissue in 2022. Unusually, it wasn’t a limited edition, so it remains available to all interested buyers.

Beyond soldiers, Bulova had divers in mind as well. In the early 1960s, diving was becoming increasingly popular. Models like the Marine Star and Oceanographer quickly became favorites for many customers around the world.

Did you know the Snorkel (1968) was released in a ladies’ version too?

Snorkel Automatic dive watches.

And how about a Snorkel with a tuning fork movement (1974)? These two models absolutely took our breath away.

Snorkel—with a tuning fork movement!

We can’t forget the legendary Marine Star either, a piece that beautifully captures the late-1990s watch aesthetic.

Sporty Marine Star.

Both Snorkel and Marine Star have received modernized counterparts.

You may have noticed last year’s Snorkel variant with a hybrid ceramic case. It’s a great alternative to Swatch, with the bonus of referencing a historically significant Bulova line.

And speaking of icons, Bulova also loaned us the world-famous Computron. Originally launched in 1976, it was Bulova’s first digital watch—and the brand’s answer to the rival Hamilton PSR, a model that helped spark the digital revolution. Computron stood out not only for its digital display but also for its shape: the display was unusually positioned on the lower edge of the case. The idea was to make time legible to drivers without lifting their hands from the steering wheel.

Not just the watch—its Computron box is stylish too.

In recent years Bulova has released several successors to the famous Computron. We currently have a special black-and-green edition in stock.

Last but not least is the elegant Bulova Seville. Launched in the 1970s, it appealed with its square, TV-style case. Angular watches were very much in fashion.

Bulova Super Seville with day-date.

Watches in this style were even produced in the Czech Republic by the Czech watch brand PRIM. If you’re thinking such a piece would fit your collection perfectly, there’s good news: since 2024, the reissue has been part of the regular lineup. The added value here is a high-frequency quartz caliber with an accuracy of ±10 seconds per year.

In closing

Personally, I was thrilled by Bulova’s historical collection. Each piece points to one of the brand’s many illustrious chapters—and each could tell a thousand stories. It reminded me why I love watches so much. Their longevity, combined with narratives both personal and societal, makes them a truly exceptional way to capture a moment. In a sense, each of us wears a small time capsule on the wrist.

And who knows—perhaps your watch will be admired in a museum in a few decades, or become the subject of an article much like this one.

Photo credits:

• Hodinky 365
• Manufacturer’s images
• www.mybulova.com
• www.timeandtidewatches.com
• www.ideascollide.com

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