Tags: Technology and concepts | Classic
9.8.2021 | 6 MIN
The king of all watch complications, the expensive and demanding production of tourbillon can only be afforded by the most prestigious watchmaking brands. The tourbillon complication has fascinated the world of watchmaking for more than 220 years, and the average mortal won't even get to see it. So let's introduce it in a series on watch complications, at least in theory.
Articles about watch complications:
A watch complication is an additional function in mechanical watches that goes beyond displaying time. The most common complication is, for example, the date indicator. Pretty popular are also chronograph complications, although it is hardly used in practice and has a more aesthetic function on the watch (counters on the dial and buttons on the sides of the case give the watch a desirable sporty look). Another massively widespread complication of mechanical watches is also the mechanism of automatic winding.
Generally speaking, the more complication the movement has, the harder it is to design it, manufacture it, as well as servise it, which can be seen on the pice of the watch... And according to many experts, the most complex, most expensive, and most sought-after complication for mechanical watches is the tourbillon, the so-called royal complication (just to give you an idea, even a less complicated type of tourbillon can be assembled by an experienced watchmaker for about nine hours).
Tourbillon met the world of watchmaking 18th century, thanks to the systematic work and ingeniousness of the French watchmaker Abraham Louis Breguet. the development itself took him five years (1795-1800). A year later, in 1801, Breguet patented the tourbillon, and shortly after the first pocket watch, equipped with today's most complex watch mechanism in the world, were for sale.
The word "tourbillon" is a French term meaning "whirlwind". The mechanism did not get this name by accident – the rotating, hypnotic movement of the tourbillon is strikingly reminiscent of its model.
Source: https://journal.hautehorlogerie.org/
The main purpose of the tourbillon was (and still is) based on a simple idea – by keeping the mechanical pocket watch still in the same position (ie hanging from a pocket), the balance wheel (mechanical watch oscillator, which gives the watch a correct pace) was affected by the gravitational field, which caused deviations in the accuracy of the watch. However, Breguet came up with a theory that if the position of the balance wheel was constantly changing, small deviations could be compensated.
Breguet, therefore, mounted the balance and escapement wheel in a "cage" (metal structure) that rotated regularly to compensate for the effect of the gravitational field on the accuracy of the pocket watch. Inside the watch, the tourbillon cage was connected to a second wheel, ensuring its regular rotational movement at 60-second intervals.
Tourbillon – A rotating "cage" with an oscillating balance and escapement wheel inside. Source: https://cs.wikipedia.org/
As for the accuracy of the tourbillon watch, most watchmakers reportedly confirm that although the tourbillon balances the speed changes induced by gravity on the balance wheel, it does not mean that it is a fully effective system for ensuring accuracy.
Over time, many types and variations of tourbillon have been developed (there are, for example, the so-called flying tourbillon, tourbillon rotating at different speeds, double-axis tourbillon, triple-axis tourbillon, gyro tourbillon, and more). The current dominance of wristwatches (they constantly change their position when worn so that the tourbillon function, which compensates for gravity by rotating, is less significant) and the technological development of watchmaking, however, have significantly reduced the functional value of the tourbillon.
The flying tourbillon was invented as early as the 1920s and was the first crucial modification of this mechanism. While the traditional tourbillon partially covers the bridge, which is part of the mechanism that holds the tourbillon, in a flying tourbillon, the bridge was removed for aesthetic reasons, and the cage was fixed from below.
The video below shows the mechanism of the so-called flying tourbillon in action.
As the name suggests, the cages of multiple tourbillons rotate on more than one axis. There are double-axial or even triple-axial tourbillons, which are among the rarest types of this complication.
Source: https://www.signaturewatches.com/
Many watches from the workshop of more prestigious high-end brands even have several different tourbillons.
Source: https://www.signaturewatches.com/
Tourbillon is a mechanism that, thanks to its complex construction and breathtaking visual effect, is the subject of so-called – high watchmaking.
Similarly to terms like "haute couture" belonging to fashion and "haute cuisine" that is used in the culinary world, haute horlogerie (horology) represents the highhest standart in watchmaking. In general, we find craft-demanding complications and mechanisms, individual in-house movements (or, if basic movements are used, they are modified and decorated), and traditional decoration of watches and movements, which are being done by hand. The term originated in the 1970s as a reaction by Swiss watchmakers to cheap quartz watches to differentiate themselves on the market.
That is why we usually find it in luxury watches only, the price tag of which is in unreachable heights for ordinary mortals. We can also find more affordable watches with a tourbillon, for which you will pay "only" about four hundred euros (Prim Tourbillon watches can serve as an example), but in such cases, you will have to come to terms that there is a Chinese Seagull TY800 movement (and of course in some unnamed Chinese internet markets you can get a watch with a tourbillon even for 30 euros, but you know...). For the most valuable watches with a tourbillon, collectors have to sacrifice a few million dollars.
Seiko Credor Fugaku Tourbillon watch, which are valued at 460 thousand dollars. Source: https://www.ablogtowatch.com/
The price of watches with a tourbillon is so high due to their rarity, high demands on the skill of the watchmaker, technical complexity, precise manual work and also the time required for their production.
For a design piece that is supposed to stand out, the standard is that the watch is decorated. The best watchmaking companies are practically competing in the complexity and beauty of the artistic processing with which they demonstrate their watchmaking skills.
Watches with a tourbillon are usually made in a skeleton design so that the precise artistic work of this complication and its surroundings can stand out.
Finally, there is traditionally another reason for the high price of a tourbillon watch, namely the fact that the market is simply willing to pay more for a tourbillon watch. That means that watchmaking brands are setting their prices so high, just because they can...
When the phrase "royal complication" is said, it has the proper weight and sound to it that collectors and "chronomaniacs" simply hear.
In conclusion – Why is tourbillon is so in demand?
Tourbillon is still considered one of the most sought after complications. And perhaps also one of the most unnecessary.
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As mentioned above, the functionality of the tourbillon itself is very debatable today. However, its extreme appeal to the watch world lies in the almost hypnotic visual effect it has on the human eye, as well as in its undeniable technical complexity, which does not leave watch enthusiasts calm.
Complicity is a fascinating concept for watchmakers (and humanity in general). That is also why many hypotheses say that it is one of the greatest hidden values of luxury. In other words, the more complex and complicated an object is, the more value people see in it. This concept allegedly touches on our deepest motivations and desires – by owning an extremely complicated object, we (and our surroundings) prove that we can understand its complexity and at the same time have sufficient awareness to appreciate it.
Finally, complications like tourbillon remind us that not everything in life needs some functional application or rational meaning. Tourbillon exists today simply for the pleasure of the eye and the spirit, and that's what's beautiful about it.
