Tags: Review | Citizen | Classic | Traditional
7.12.2023 | 9 MIN | 2x comment
I wouldn't look for premium automatic watch with proper movements when it comes to Citizen. And then I got my hands on the Citizen Series 8.
If someone had asked me over a beer what I thought of Citizen, I would have said without hesitation that it makes really good watches at a great price. And I'd start a ballad about Eco-Drives, how their titanium always gets me and that if anyone wants a radio, they should go to Citizen. But premium mechanical watches? Citizen?
Of course the world loves their Tsuyosas. But the Miyota inside is a total staple for those who want good but cheap automatics. So how did they get the premium movements? And when did that happen? How come we barely noticed this invasion?
Sometime in 2008, the Japanese citizen figured out that they could do better than solars and that mechanics actually fit their eco philosophy too. And that they don't just have to put them in divers or low cost models. In short, it would be worth showing the world what we're all about. He tested it on home soil first as the Series 8s were originally exclusively for the Japanese market.
And then, sometime in early '21, a flood of articles started appearing in foreign magazines and forums announcing that the Series 8 was coming. And the 8 being a symbol of infinity. Infinite possibilities of where you could go if you wanted to. And Citizen wanted it badly.
But you didn't see them in a local stores. Until now. It's 2023 and we can enjoy a premium series from a brand we may have underestimated in some ways. But maybe that's why we've been approaching the Series 8 with caution. It could have been a bummer, but it also... That's what today's review is about.
Three different models hit the market in one fell swoop. Two three-handed date watches and one GMT. But today's review will only be about the three hands because they share the same DNA and also because the GMT deserves a separate approach in my opinion.
The first model is the Series 8 NB601 version with the 9051 movement. It ranges in price up to twenty-five thousand and looks quite unobtrusive.
Of course, one must not be fooled. The polished lunette and fairly minimalist dial look like nothing but on closer inspection and especially on the wrist, the Series 8 changes the game.
Above all, the focus should be on the octagonal case, which is rather barrel-shaped, without the classic feet, and thus gives a sportier and more robust impression than its 40 mm diameter betrays.
The crown cover (a handy little thing), which has two screws also does enough. Thus, the watch definitely does not give off a dull impression but rather a dynamic one.
The dimensions also have to take into account the end link of the bracelet (this comes in at 52 mm), which is easy to mistake for an integrated one at a glance. But it is only very precisely incorporated to the case.
I was literally blown away by its workmanship. And even though, given the higher price, I was expecting something good. But definitely not that good. The buckle is solid, no flap, opens beautifully and comfortably and there are two smaller pieces at the buckle for better girth control. Which I take as a major bonus because with a buckle without micro-regulation it's sometimes hard to find the right size.
Inside the case then, is the aforementioned caliber from the Citizen 9051 production. Already on the dial you will be impressed by the information that the watch has, in addition to the 100m WR and sapphire, an antimagnetic rating of 16000 A/m, which is really high for a regular watch. Roughly triple what is required for a watch to carry the "antimagnetic" designation at all.
The rest of the movement's values are pretty standard. Around 42 hours of power reserve, a frequency of 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour and 24 stone fits. Also hacking and hand winding, of course.
On paper it's no hit parade but – more than above average antimagnetism, in my testing it didn't go more than 7 seconds per day into the plus and great thinness thanks to which the thickness of the whole watch fit into 10 mm. That's not bad at all, but not bad at all.
The dials are rather plain then but with a hilarious sunburst. Citizen has also played beautifully with the indices and especially legibility.
The second model with calibre 0951 is a bigger wilderness...
I'm not going to hold back and start with the dial on the Series 8 NA101 models. Long gone are the days when mother-of-pearl was considered a feature of ladies' watches only. In fact, it's been such a creeping trend in recent years. But hand on heart, not everyone is into it.
But here's something unexpectedly enticing. And that's because of the thoughtfulness of the whole concept. So, we have a basic metal dial plate with a dark mother-of-pearl base and a grid pattern on top of that.
The whole thing is unglamorous and it's eye-catching. The mother of pearl is still there, playing with the light but it's subdued and quite unobtrusive. Still, it may not be many people's cup of tea. But it's exactly what I would expect from a Japanese manufacturer and something that anyone looking for something different will appreciate.
Plus, all the other details match the dial. Like the lettering. They're not sloppily pasted on the dial, they're an ingenious part of it. The indices? They're topped with a sort of thin tip like a skyscraper. It connects the dial to the circle on which the indices are. And the circle is still subtly separated by a steel line, which I only noticed in the evening when the lights were on.
It all sounds complicated, doesn't it? But together it works. The hands, deliberately partially skeletonized to make the dial stand out, carry a luminescence at the end. So do the dots on the metal indexes. The lume is intense, but I'm not so convinced by the endurance. It's not a dive, though, nor a downright sporty model, and there's enough time for an evening's reading, so I'm satisfied.
The bracelet is then in the same processing and design as the first model. And so is the case. The only change is a little more thickness. And that brings me to the movement.
The movement, along with the dial, is the reason you'll want this watch and the reason you'll pay a little extra.
The Caliber 0950 is an in-house movement from Citizen. Its main selling argument is based on its claimed accuracy figures of -5 to +10 seconds per day. And I never once, in the 14 or so days I spent days and evenings with them, went over +3 on the Watchtrecker in the first 24 hours. They never got into the minus range after that. That's what got me. Actually, these are the most accurate Japanese automatics I've ever had at around this price point.
Otherwise it's pretty similar in parameters to the aforementioned 9051 including 200 gauss antimagnetic resistance and a flywheel speed of 28800 semi oscillations per hour. There are also fast-speed dates, hacking and manual winding options.
We can hardly end the review without mentioning the competition. What we're looking for: better drives, certainly more than basic workmanship, hundred percent water resistance, a steel bracelet. Just everyday automatics.
So the first rival is clear. PRX. Price-wise, it's definitely better. But it loses out to the Citizen in detail of workmanship. Plus, it carries the stigma of Powermatic with all those "plastic" parts. Personally, I probably wouldn't blame them for that but I think the advantage for many will be the lower reserve but the possibility of classic regulation. Plus, the Citizen goes more sporty, while the PRX maintains a more social status.
And then there's the Swiss Frederique. How I love his Highlifes! But we're already at higher price point there and that's for the Sellita and the lower water resistance. Otherwise though, it's like a really beautiful watch. When you wear it on your wrist, you feel like it was born with you. And you don't want to take it off. But at twice the price... you'll change your mind. And even though they're getting a standing ovation from the crowd, I'd say the Citizen would win on points.
I actually forgot about a fairly new player, Certina and their DS-7. But I don't know, they looked great in hand. But somehow they leave me cold. They're like, hey, the trend there is such and such and poppy, and we don't do anything like that. Let's catch up fast. And DS-7 is the result. Quality, solid, but a little conservative. At least Citizen's going their own way and I appreciate that.
And let's not forget the Japanese competition. Specifically, there's Seiko (there's always Seiko). Here, the challenger would probably be Sharp Edged. The distinctive dials, the 100M, the in-house automaton, the excellent quality of the steel body and bracelet workmanship. Yeah, that's a real competitor! It's just that design-wise it's a completely different watch, so again, for those looking for a more rugged model, the Citizen will be a more interesting player.
The Series 8 has to convince you of something. Appeal. But as I mentioned earlier, don't be fooled by the apparent unassuming nature of it. They're easy to miss in the showcase or on the eshops.
At least, that's how I had it. Before I got my hands on the S8. The quality difference from cheaper competitors can be felt in places by sight, but more by feel. In short, everything is just as you'd expect at this price point, all meticulously smoothed out with no glaring imperfections.
What surprised me a little are two things. First and foremost, that Citizen didn't reach for their SuperTitanium. I don't know of another brand that makes titanium at this scale and quality in this price range. It handles all levels from entry-level to highly sophisticated titanium models with bravado. Incorporating titanium into the Series 8 must have been a piece of cake for him.
And I'm sure they thought of it but I figured it was a deliberate move. After all, steel looks better somehow. To look at and to feel, you get the impression that you're getting a proper watch on your wrist.
The second thing is the lack of a speedwatch. A modern gadget that even Swiss competitors are opting for. Intent again? I can't judge. But maybe Citizen thought "let's just make the wristbands so cool that no one will take them off". And it worked out pretty well.
Wait, there's a third thing I can think of – a see-through tip. When someone buys a more expensive drive at this price, they often want to see it. We're out of luck here. Maybe the machines aren't really designed for that, and the lack of better decoration might disappoint someone.
Their focus is on reliability, durability and good accuracy rather than any attempt to show off. I honestly don't mind a full steel dink one bit. I see the Series 8 as a watch for all-day wear, where you don't take it off your hands and appreciate it for qualities other than the view of the movement from the back.
I guess that sums up the whole Series 8. A damn well thought out watch, with quality mechanics inside, a very versatile design and specs. The convenience it offers, the 100 WR and the sapphire make it one of the top automatic everyday wear watches on the market.
31.10.2023
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Now it's just a matter of whether it hits your taste. The basic version may look a bit boring but timeless, whereas the more expensive version probably won't be dared by just anyone because of the design but in both cases I recommend giving them a closer look because you may be surprised at what Citizen can deliver for the money.
Egdir • ago 31 days, respond
Eliška Měrková • ago 26 days
